Sunday, June 9, 2013

Venice, Italy (Part 1)

Deep Travel Discounts, An Unexpected Meeting With Peggy Guggenheim Plus The 6th Highest Acqua Alta!


There's no place in the world like Venice.
Arthur - Midnight in Piazza San Marco







One can try to describe Venice but it must be experienced to be understood, to be felt, and to be appreciated. The museums, the music, the food, the architecture...the city itself is a living, breathing historical phenomenon. You have to blink several times to make sure you're not on a Hollywood movie set.

I traveled to Venice in November 2012 with my friend Bud Santora to do research for my upcoming novel, Aqua Alta. The title in Italian means high water and refers to the annual flooding of the city that occurs commonly between September and February. I was hoping there would be an aqua alta while I visited and boy, did I get what I asked for. More about that later. But two of the perks traveling off season are...less people and it's less expensive.

Riding In Private Water Taxi
I priced the trip on my own, airfare and hotel and then I went to a site called Gate 1 Travel. I used this deep discount travel company once before on a trip to Barcelona (that blog will be coming up soon) and I was so thrilled with the trip, I decided to use them again for Venice.

The exact same trip - four nights out of JFK - if booked on my own came to approximately $1,593.33 per person.  Booked through Gate 1 it came to $794.60. Everything was in order and went smoothly and exactly as planned. But if at anytime there is a mix-up, you have direct contact with Gate 1 who will help you. (No, I don't work for them but I'd love to buy some stock in their company.)

(Note to self: When flying for long periods of time, never ever wear comfortable nylon shell workout pants on a plane. All night long during the flight over I kept slipping out of my seat.)

Yes, That Tower Is Leaning!
I had been to Venice once before and felt I had only scratched the surface of what there was to explore. And on that trip I arrived by train and could walk to my hotel. This trip, flying in, I chose to hire a water taxi to take us to our hotel. You can ride the vaporetto, which is akin to a water bus. It's inexpensive but they can be very crowded and with luggage it can actually be quite anxiety producing. So I spent a little more money and hired a "shared" water taxi online through Venice Link. It was so easy.
Katharine Hepburn - Summertime

When we touched down at the airport in Venice there was a man waiting for us, checked that everything was in order and with one other couple we walked a short pathway to our boat. Total cost to take us to our hotel and back again to the airport when we were leaving was about $62 for both of us! $31 a piece/$15.50 each way. It was so worth it. And the boat was a beautiful wood paneled type you see in the movies. Think The Tourist with Angelina Jolie and Johnny Depp. Actually, don't. It's a terrible film. The movie you should watch is Summertime with Katharine Hepburn. Directed by David Lean in 1955, the story is a bit silly but everything is shot on location and Venice still looks gloriously the same today.

Hotel Bucintoro
The fantastic Hotel Bucintoro was our destination. It's named after the ornate boat of State that for centuries has carried Doges out into the Adriatic Sea to bless and commemorate the marriage of the sea with the city of Venice on Ascension Day. An added plus is that the Bucintoro has its own dock so our water taxi dropped us off and picked us up right in front of the hotel. (History Of Bucintoro)

A  Room With A View
We had room #303 - a room with a view. A magnificent view. Facing the Adriatic Sea and located on the broad walkway of the San Biagio in the Arsenal district, the hotel was a short walking distance to Piazza San Marco in one direction and the Biennale Gardens in the other. Still along the Grand Canal, we felt as though we were close to everything yet still away from the crowds of tourists.

Room # 303
All the rooms in the hotel were designed to make you feel like you were on a ship. And the staff were friendly and helpful. The daily breakfasts were truly delicious. Hot and cold dishes, tiers of fruits and pastries and endless pots of some of the best coffee I've ever tasted.

We spent the first day getting our bearings and soaking up
Bud At An Outdoor Cafe
the fantastic sunny weather. It may have been the second week of November but it felt like spring. And we knew that a tremendous aqua alta was threatening to arrive sooner than later. 


We had a glass of wine, a walk through the Piazza San Marco and then weaved our way over to the Rialto Bridge.
Osteria Al Sacro e Profano
As the sun was setting we walked along the Strada Nova till we found the Round Church in Campo della Maddalena. Here we met up with Julia from Urban Adventures. I had heard great things about the cicchetti tour she was going to take us and two other couples on. I had booked all of this online and it was the best thing we could have done on our first night in Venice. She was smart, funny and took us to five different Bacari wine bars serving excellent red and white wines and melt-in-your-mouth cicchettis - Italy's version of tapas.
Gondola Fresco


These establishments are where the locals hang out and Julia shared tons of history and interesting anecdotes about Venice and its people. I really enjoyed Osteria Al Sacro e Profano. Run by a brother and sister team, it embodied the true spirit of a Venetian osteria. And across the alley way above our heads was this amazing little fresco of a gondola. This food and wine crawl changed our whole perspective of Venice.

Day two we strolled over to the Venice Biennale. This year marks its 55th season. A triumph
Russian Pavilion
of international art and architecture, 88 countries are participating, including the Vatican. When we visited, I really loved the Russian pavilion. Upon entering you were handed an iPad and the domed room was covered in thousands of "quick response bar codes" which described different aspects about Russia. You just aim and learn!


A late lunch at a cafe clinging to the side of a canal and we were off exploring again. In Venice, just walking around is like being in a museum. But I had never been to the famed  Peggy Guggenheim and really wanted to experience it. But as we approached the Accademia Bridge to cross the Grand Canal, it was Bud who noticed
We Had Palazzo Cavalli To Ourselves!
the breathtakingly beautiful Palazzo Cavalli and a banner announcing an exhibit of Bertil Vallien's Murano glass. But this wasn't your momma's Murano glass nor was this your run of the mill palazzo. As we entered, a young man passed us saying, "You won't be disappointed." And we weren't! And we were the only people walking from room to room in this sumptuous palace full of the most crazy, good, insane glass work I've ever seen.

Bertil Vallien Murano Glass
Peggy Guggenheim Museum
We enjoyed the exhibit so much we had to make a mad dash to Peggy's house before the museum closed. The sun had set and the golden Venetian lights were beginning to twinkle everywhere as we walked through the rooms of her the Palazzo Venier dei Leioni, an 18th-century palace, which was her home until her death in 1979. 

She not only collected stunning artwork by Alexander Calder, Jackson Pollack, Max Ernst and many others, but she was also lovers with several of them, not to mention Samuel Beckett. If interested to know more about this extremely eccentric woman, read Edmund White's City Boy who was friends with her in the 60s and 70s. 

In fact, after soaking up as much art and culture as I could, I went out into the garden courtyard and sat on a stone chair to gather my strength to walk all the way back towards our hotel. I pulled out my iPad and started to read chapter 11 in Edmund's book. He says that Peggy wasn't lazy, but bored. The only passion she had in her life was to make sure that she and her beloved Lhasa Apsos could be buried in her garden. Well, it's against Venetian law not to be buried in a cemetery but Peggy said she'd donate her palace and priceless artwork to the city if they could be buried underneath her stone Byzantine chair. And they were.

Oh. My. God. I'm sitting on Peggy Guggenheim!

Peggy And Her Beloved Dogs
  
Next Post Will Be Venice (Part 2) -  Film, Food and Flooding!


5 comments:

  1. Wonderful details of an intriguing adventure. Looking forward to Venice Part 2!

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  2. Replies
    1. Susie - You have to go! At least once in your life.

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